Angola - Malawi

During my last trip to Central and Southern Africa, I missed Angola due to inconvenient flight options. I decided to catch up this time and add Malawi to enhance the trip.

May 17, 2026
Luanda to Malanje

After breakfast at Brisotel, where I stayed (my room actually had a sea view), I ordered a Yango to Macon (interprovincial bus service) at Gamek. They have a daily 9:31 am bus to Malanje, but their website showed the bus was sold out on that day. Despite that, I was able to buy a ticket for that bus at a lower price (11,500 AOA instead of the online price of 14,500 AOA). I also bought the return ticket for two days later.

The bus departed almost on time and stopped at their Viana terminal for 30 minutes, making numerous stops along the way. In addition to loading and dropping off passengers, it also made several shopping stops (from street vegetable and fruit vendors) and toilet stops (in the open), before arriving in Malanje at 6:35 pm, more than two hours behind schedule. To make it even worse, it terminated at their terminal west of Malanje, not the city centre as printed on the ticket (I later learned the central terminal no longer exists).

A hotel room with sea view

May 18, 2026
Kalandula Falls & Black Rocks at Pungo Andongo

A full day was devoted to two side trips from Malanje. After breakfast at the hotel, I took a motorcycle taxi to the transportation center on the western edge of town (all buses, including Macon buses, and shared taxis heading west depart from here. motorcycle taxis are widely available in town and can take you there for 300-500 AOA). It took little time to find a shared taxi to Kalandula (2,000 AOA one way). They depart as soon as there are four passengers in the car. Although I was the first passenger (sitting in the front seat), it took only 10 minutes for the car to fill up. The journey to Kalandula took 70 minutes on a well-paved road. Once there, motorcycle taxis can take you to the falls for 500 AOA one way (and another 500 AOA for the return trip to Kalandula).

There are actually two ways to see Kalandula Falls: 1) the expensive luxury hotel Pousada Calandula, which costs over US$200 per night and requires a private taxi unless you are driving, usually as part of an expensive two-day tour package from Luanda; and 2) the public viewpoint, which is what I visited. I have to admit that Pousada Calandula has slightly better views, and you can see the falls directly from your room. However, several travelers have reported that the service is not in line with the high price tag. It is definitely not for me, especially when a public viewpoint is available and can be reached easily by public transportation.

A guide approached me and offered to take me to the bottom of the waterfall. I negotiated the price down to 10,000 AOA (from an initial 20,000 AOA). A group would certainly get a lower per-person price. The 15-minute hike down is considered moderately difficult, with a steep descent, and is not recommended during the rainy season. The last 100 meters or so are particularly slippery, even in the dry season. When we reached the bottom of the waterfall, even the guide slipped on the rocks (he was fine). From the bottom of Kalandula Falls, you are supposed to get a broader view of the waterfall, but because of the spray, I do not think the photo opportunities are as good as those from the public viewpoint. Also, since I was there in the morning, the sun was behind the falls, so your face may appear dark if you are taking photos with the waterfall in the background. Overall, hiking to the bottom of the falls was a worthwhile experience if you are reasonably fit, especially during the dry season. The hike back up took 40 minutes, including several rest stops.

Back in Malanje, I asked my hotel, Hotel Portugalia (referred to by many as the best hotel in town), to arrange a private taxi to the Black Rocks of Pungo Andongo, which are not reachable by public transportation and are usually included on the second day of an expensive two-day Kalandula Falls tour from Luanda. The hotel was helpful, but it took an hour to confirm a taxi for 60,000 AOA (initially quoted at 70,000 AOA). It then took another hour for the driver to arrive, despite being told "five minutes".

I believe the delays were mostly due to the taxi companies, as I communicated efficiently with the hotel reception throughout the process. I was told that there are only two private taxi companies in Malanje, and every time the hotel asked about availability, pricing, or other details, the response was simply, "I need to talk to my boss." Finally, we departed at 3:00 pm and arrived at 5:20 pm, just before sunset. The driver apparently did not know the route very well and had to ask several people for directions. He even made a mistake at one point, and I had to correct him using Google Maps.

A large parking lot surrounded by black rock formations apparently serves as an unofficial visitor centre. Once again, a guide approached us and offered his services for 4,000 AOA. Since it was almost sunset, I did not bother negotiating. We started the 10-minute climb over a small hill to the viewpoint (miradouro), a moderately challenging hike. To be honest, although the rocks themselves are only slightly dark in color, the sunset view of these massive formations is quite impressive. From the end of the viewpoint, we could also see the Kwanza River. On the way back, we used a different route with stairs, apparently because descending directly over the hill was considered too risky.

Kalandula Falls from the bottom of the falls

May 19, 2026
Malanje to Luanda

The Macon bus departed pretty much on time at 7:20 am, but it seems buses in Angola never reach their destinations on schedule. Once again, this bus arrived in Luanda two hours late. Luckily, I still had enough time to visit some of the city's main sights before dark.

Several rideshare apps are available in Luanda, and Yango seems to be the best option. Although Bolt is cheaper, it was much slower than Yango in my experience, and I never managed to get Heetch to work. After a short Yango ride, I reached perhaps Luanda's most famous attraction, the Fortress of São Miguel (admission was 300 AOA).

The rest of my sightseeing was done entirely on foot. Walking along the Marginal (Luanda Bay Waterfront) was quite pleasant, with many locals and expats walking and jogging there as well. The best place to photograph the iconic National Bank of Angola is around the "I Love Luanda" sign on the Marginal. Leaving the waterfront and heading into the city center, I admired the Iron Palace from the outside before walking to a restaurant near my hotel just around sunset.

 Fortress of São Miguel

May 20, 2026

Luanda to Lubango

Since my flight to Lubango did not depart until after 6:00 pm, my original plan was to visit the famous Miradouro da Lua. However, I learned that the site was temporarily closed for six months. That was pretty disappointing, but I still had some time to kill.

Instead, I visited the Agostinho Neto Mausoleum to learn more about the country's founding president (museum admission was 200 AOA). Most of the visitors were groups of students.

I had a seafood lunch at a local beachfront restaurant on Ilha do Cabo. The price was only 8,000 AOA, about half that of the nearby restaurants catering to foreigners. The food was good, but it took almost an hour for it to be served!

Museum at the Agostinho Neto Mausoleum

May 21, 2026

Lubango to Namibe

After breakfast at my hotel, I went to the bus terminal area where buses to Namibe depart (on the way to the airport), hoping to buy a ticket for later that day. It turned out that all buses to Namibe originate in Luanda, and there is no fixed or reliable schedule. Tickets are only sold when the bus from Luanda arrives. I decided to visit Tundavala Gap first.

The only rideshare app available in Lubango is Heetch. While Heetch operates in Lubango, it does not serve Tundavala Gap. When my driver arrived, I negotiated a round trip for slightly more than double the fare shown in the app, and he agreed without hesitation.

There are several viewpoints at Tundavala Gap. To take the famous V-shaped photo of the gap, you need to walk to the viewpoint on the right side of the parking lot. The scenery is dramatic and well worth the trip.

Back in Lubango, it was a bit challenging to figure out which bus to take to Namibe. Three companies serve the route: Macon, Real Express, and Huambo Expresso. They all provided estimated departure times, but these were far from accurate because they did not know when their buses from Luanda would arrive. It felt like a gamble trying to guess which company's bus would show up first. I ended up waiting three hours for the Huambo Expresso bus and finally left Lubango at 3:00 pm.

Taking a public bus means missing the opportunity to photograph the famous zigzag curves of Serra da Leba from the viewpoint near the pass, but experiencing the sharp descent from the road itself is equally exciting. The bus arrived in Namibe four hours later.

Indigenous people near Tundavala Gap

May 22, 2026

Namibe to Luanda

The most famous attraction around Namibe is probably Lagoa dos Arcos. There is no public transportation to the site, and a 4WD vehicle is required. I booked a half-day trip with a local travel agency that also included a short detour to see Welwitschia mirabilis, a remarkable plant that grows only in the deserts of Namibia and Angola.

The "tour" lasted about three hours, after which they dropped me off at the airport. I was happy to see both the sandstone arches and the Welwitschia mirabilis, although the schedule felt a bit rushed.

Angola Airlines had changed my flight to Luanda from 3:20 pm to 12:35 pm. It appears that this schedule change is fairly common on their Friday flight, according to FlightRadar24.

Welwitschia mirabilis

May 23, 2026

Luanda to Lilongwe

A transit day. Lilongwe lies to the east of Luanda, but flights between the two capitals are not straightforward. I had to fly southeast to Johannesburg first, then northeast to Nairobi, and finally south to Lilongwe. What a route!

International Transfer Desk at Johannesburg Airport

May 24, 2026

Chongoni Rock Art Area

My flight arrived in Lilongwe on time at around 2:00 am. The visa on arrival process was extremely straightforward. I handed over US$50 and received the visa almost instantly, with no questions asked. I did still need to queue for immigration, where I was asked a few standard questions.

After resting at a hotel in central Lilongwe for 3 hours and having breakfast, I took a motorcycle taxi to the bus station in Old Town. As in many other African countries, there are always people willing to help you find a ride. I eventually boarded a minibus that was nearly full and paid 25,000 MWK to go to Dedza. Even though it looked almost full, it did not depart until nearly an hour later. After numerous stops and checkpoints along the way, the minibus eventually reached Dedza about 2.5 hours later. I asked to be dropped off at the intersection for Chenchelere Rock Art, the easiest site to access in the UNESCO-listed Chongoni Rock Art Area.

Several motorcycle taxi drivers approached me, and I arranged a round trip to Chenchelere Rock Art for 20,000 MWK. About 1 km from the intersection, I stopped by Dedza Pottery and Lodge, a popular lodge for tourists. They were kind enough to store my bag for a short period while I visited the rock art site. It took about 40 minutes to reach Chenchelere Rock Art on a dirt, bumpy road (a face mask is recommended). The rock art site is very close to the parking area and has no entrance fee. A "volunteer" guide offered to show me the two rock art areas: one larger area that is easy to find but where the paintings are somewhat faded, and a smaller area further behind the hill where the rock art is clearer and sharper. The guide also took me on a short but steep climb to the top of the hill for a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape, including the mountains in Mozambique. Tips are optional.

Back in Dedza, the motorcycle taxi dropped me off at a spot where shared taxis to Monkey Bay were available. In Malawi, shared taxis and minibuses serve the same purpose: they depart when full, with the main difference being the vehicle size. I paid a guy 50,000 MWK for a car to Monkey Bay (I later learned that I overpaid). What happened next is considered “normal” in some developing countries, so I was not particularly surprised.

First, I was transferred to another shared taxi in Golomoti (after a scenic drive crossing a mountain pass). Then, about 30 minutes before Monkey Bay, one of the tires went flat. After waiting for more than an hour, they still could not fix it. Since it was getting dark, I asked to be transferred to another vehicle. Shortly after, I was transferred again for a second time. That was not the end of it. At Mtakataka (about 10 km from Monkey Bay), I was transferred once more to another shared taxi.

By the time I arrived in Monkey Bay, it was already getting dark. I negotiated a motorcycle taxi to take me to Cape Maclear for 15,000 MWK. After a 30-minute ride, mostly on a paved road, I finally reached Cape Maclear in complete darkness.

Chenchelere Rock Art

May 25

Lake Malawi National Park

Perhaps the most relaxing day of my entire trip. After a 9:00 am breakfast, I spoke with the guide assigned to my lodge and negotiated a customized three-hour boat tour for the afternoon for US$70. Afterwards, I walked to Otter Point (part of Lake Malawi National Park) at a very slow pace. On the way, I paid the US$10 national park entrance fee, which also covered the islands I would visit later in the afternoon.

Even outside the national park boundary, I could see baboons and monkeys, and of course there were even more within the park. Unfortunately, I did not see any otters at Otter Point, but it was still very relaxing to sit on the rocks and enjoy the view.

Back in Cape Maclear village, I had usipa (small fish from Lake Malawi) with nsima (considered the national dish of Malawi) and a bottle of the local “Sobo” ginger drink at Zathu Cape Community Kitchen & Bar, which is popular with locals. As in Angola, food also takes 30 minutes to an hour to be served. However, this restaurant actually printed the waiting time on the menu, which I appreciated. Prices have gone up, but are still about half of those at tourist-oriented restaurants.

My boat tour started at 3:00 pm. The first stop was Domwe Gap for the view. We then stopped offshore near Thumbi West Island to see the cichlids, a group of fish species that Lake Malawi is famous for. The guide even fed them bread, which brought the fish to the surface for easy viewing. I also snorkeled near the boat (they provided equipment, including life jackets) for a closer look at the cichlids. Since it was winter in Malawi, the water was a bit cold, so I did not spend too much time snorkeling.

The boat then sailed to the other side of Thumbi West Island. The guide used fish to lure African fish eagles down from the island to the water. The final part of the tour was sunset viewing - it was absolutely gorgeous.

Otter Point

May 26, 2026

Cape Maclear to Lilongwe

No sightseeing for the day - just a transit back to the capital for my flight out of the country the next day.

My lodge in Cape Maclear arranged a motorcycle taxi to take me directly to Mtakataka for 20,000 MWK, as it is easier to find shared taxis to Lilongwe from there. At Mtakataka, I paid 40,000 MWK for a trip to Lilongwe, expecting to be transferred between multiple vehicles along the way. That turned out to be true.

I was first transferred at Golomoti, and then again at Dedza. The road between Lizulu (after crossing the mountain) and Dedza runs along the border between Malawi and Mozambique, and you can see buildings on the other side of the road with Portuguese signage.

I arrived at the Lilongwe bus station about seven hours after boarding the first shared taxi in Mtakataka.

Monkey Bay to Golomoti

Overview

My 10-day trip to Angola and Malawi mostly went as expected. Despite very little English being spoken, traveling around Angola is actually fairly straightforward thanks to interprovincial coaches and domestic flights. However, schedules are often only a rough reference - delays are the norm for long-distance buses. For the two domestic flights I took, one was delayed by 2.5 hours, and the other departed 3 hours earlier than scheduled. A certain amount of patience is needed due to the slow pace of travel.

Malawi is a much poorer country, and shared taxis and minibuses are not particularly comfortable. Many roads are in poor condition. While I only used motorcycle taxis for short rides within cities in Angola, in Malawi I often had to take them for journeys lasting 30 minutes to over an hour.

One positive aspect of Malawi is that most people speak conversational English, although local languages are used among themselves. I was impressed by the natural beauty of Angola. While Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi is a very relaxing destination, parts of the road leading there are in poor condition. Even if you hire a private taxi (around US$150 one way), you cannot avoid the bumpy roads, and there is no airport near Cape Maclear.