Aug. 8, 2009
Umphang
The overnight bus from Bangkok arrived in Mae Sot before 6 a.m. as usual, just enough to catch the first songthaew to Umphang at 7 p.m. (120 baht). The trip takes more than 4 hours and the view is not bad, although not great either. After learning that I was going to Tee Lor Su, the driver dropped me at Umphang Hill Resort, together with a bench of young Thai guys and 2 Italian ladies.
The people at Umphang Hill Resort seem to know what they are doing pretty well. After listening to what I needed, they gave me a quotation of 2,500 baht for a 2 day trip to the fall all inclusive (probably due to the fact that I speak a little bit Thai, as the Italian ladies paid more).
After some simple lunch at the resort, we started the first leg of the trip – a 3 hour rafting along the Mae Khlong River, passing some small waterfalls and stopping shortly at a hot spring. After rafting, it’s another 3 hour jungle trekking (part of it was quite muddy) to the campsite near the waterfall. We arrived just before dark and found that the majority of the Thai troops were already there. Dinner at the campsite was not too bad, although there were only spicy dishes. There is no real electricity system at the campsite and everything shuts down around 9 p.m.
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| Mae Khlong River |
Aug. 9, 2009
Tee Lor Su Waterfall
From the campsite to Tee Lor Su Waterfall is an easy 30 minute walk on a paved trail. The waterfall does look wide and high and the water is very strong. Thais played in the water happily while foreigners just looked at the fall and took photos.
Back to the campsite we had some simple lunch then walked back to the pier and rafted another 2 hours downstream to Malimu Village where we took a truck to Umphang town (a 30 minute drive). Dinner at Umphang Hill Resort was very good with plenty of food.
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| Tee Lor Su Waterfall |
Aug. 10, 2009
Umphang to Mae Sariang
The guide at Umphang Hill Resort apparently didn’t know much about the songthaew schedule. He asked me to get up early to catch the first songthaew passing the resort at 6 a.m. I waited for more than 30 minutes and didn’t see any Songthaew. The guide offered to take me to the songthaew station, only to find out the first songthaew left already at 6:30 a.m. Although a little bit disappointed, I was quite happy with the Karen guide and the services provided by Umphang Hill Resort.
I took the 7:30 a.m. songtaew and arrived at Mae Sot almost 12:30 p.m. Sadly, the Mae Sot – Mae Sariang songthaew runs hourly from 7:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon only. A couple offered 1,000 baht to take me to Mae Tun where I could catch another songthaew to Mae Sariang. I knew it’s a rip-off but I didn’t really want to spend the rest of the day at Mae Sot so I had no choice but jumping onto their truck. The public songthaew was waiting at Mae Tun and it arrived at Mae Sariang late afternoon (150 baht). The trip between Mae Sot and Mae Sariang is an interesting one with Burmese villages dotted along the route. I saw some school children in poor clothes jumping onto the songthaew to get home from school.
Mae Sariang is not a particularly interesting town although I saw many tour agencies on the main roads. Mitaree 1 Hotel is the closest accommodation choice to the bus station that offers hot shower inside the room for only 250 baht per night. Dinner at the ever popular Inthira Restaurant is a pleasant experience – the butter coated fried shrimp is recommended. There are numerous internet cafes in the town center area.
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| Refugee Camps between Umphang and Mae Sot |
Aug. 11, 2009
Mae Hong Son
I took the first bus to Mae Hong Son at 7:00 a.m. (non-air). It takes about 4 hours along a scenic road. The new bus station in Mae Hong Son is south of the town. It’s probably around 20 minute walk from town center but I was not sure about the directions so hired a Tuk-Tuk for 60 baht (standard fair posted on the wall of the bus station).
At Friend House, the lady only smiled after I decided to take her room (upstairs with lake view 350 baht per night). As for sightseeing, the opposite Friend Tour asked 1,200 baht for transportation to Huay Dua Pier, elephant camp and Mud Spa. I decided to eat first at Kai Muk Restaurant then walked to a small travel agency nearby. The friendly owner only wanted 600 baht for the same route. Decision made.
The 20 minute boat trip from Huay Dua to Huay Pu Keng along the Pai River costs 600 baht per boat return and the entrance fee to the village 250 baht. Huay Pu Keng is famous for the long-neck women in the area. And the small road inside the village is virtually a street of souvenir shops. At the end of the road is a middle school that seems most interesting.
Back to Huay Dua pier, an elephant was already waiting there. An hour elephant ride by a local guy across the Pai River and back costs 600 baht (one or two people).
The Mud Spa is a little bit far north of the town center. There is nothing special, although the 20 minute mud facial treatment for only 60 baht is a good try.
Back to town, the cheap Chee Restaurant next to Friend House is a little bit disappointing, with very long waiting time and not-so-delicious food.
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| Chong Kham Lake, Mae Hong Son |
Aug. 12, 2009
Pai
There are numerous buses and mini-vans between Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai, passing Pai, the so-called backpacker’s heaven in Northern Thailand. I took the 8 a.m. mini-van (150 baht) and it took less than 3 hours to reach Pai, a busy town that sees more foreigners than locals. I bought the ticket for the 2 p.m. mini-bus (150 baht) to Chiang Mai and checked my bag at the tiny bus station. Although it’s a little bit overrated, Pai still has a relaxing atmosphere. The less than 2 hour walk (go & back) to Wat Mae Yen on the hill is a pleasant one.
The newer and slightly bigger mini-bus is more comfortable than the mini-van. It took more than 3 hours to reach Chiang Mai, just enough time to catch the 5:55 p.m. sleeper train to Bangkok (I bought the ticket on the spot, about 800 baht for an air-conditioned upper berth).
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| Way to Wat Mae Yen, Pai |
Overview
Umpang is definitely off the beaten track, at least to foreigners. If you are a natural lover, it’s worth the trip. Tee Lor Su Waterfall is magnificent and the journey to it (rafting and trekking) is perhaps more interesting. The trip between Mae Sot and Mae Sariang is one of the best I have seen in Thailand, both scenically and culturally.
Mae Hong Son and Pai see more foreign tourists. The sightseeing spots are not particularly interesting but the trip getting there is a relaxing one, especially if you love forests.
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